Sunday 23 March 2008
Nn3 Vee tipper conversion
I've spent the past day or so converting some of the fantastic Nigel Lawton 009 Vee Tipper kits to Nn3 to be pulled behind my shunter. Click on the image below for my "how to" guide...
Saturday 22 March 2008
Wishlist!
This is more of a post for myself to be honest but perhaps it'll be of interest to a few... as it stands here's my dream list of N scale trains to buy (although I'd need a very anachronism-friendly layout to run them all!):
Kato GG1 £85.99 (MG Sharp)
Kato SVT137. DRG Epoche II. Cream & Violet. £118.99 (MG Sharp)
Kato SBB CFF "Gotthardo" RAell TEE £189.99 (MG Sharp)
Con-Cor Pioneer Zephyr $284.95 (blwnscale.com)
Bachmann class J 4-8-4 steam loco 601 £79 (ehattons)
MicroAce Nakai Series 5000 "Rapi:t" Kansai Airport Express $499.99 (Newhall Station)
MiniTrix DRG Class 03.10 4-6-2 £165.00 (Gaugemaster)
Graham Farish BR Class 9F 2-10-0 (92002) Black Early £103 (Gaugemaster)
Graham Farish BR (ex-GWR) Railcar W30W Brunswick Green £66
Microace C53 A$ 126.45 (Japanese Model Supplies)
List will be updated as and when I find new things! Current running total: £1222.74
Kato GG1 £85.99 (MG Sharp)
Kato SVT137. DRG Epoche II. Cream & Violet. £118.99 (MG Sharp)
Kato SBB CFF "Gotthardo" RAell TEE £189.99 (MG Sharp)
Con-Cor Pioneer Zephyr $284.95 (blwnscale.com)
Bachmann class J 4-8-4 steam loco 601 £79 (ehattons)
MicroAce Nakai Series 5000 "Rapi:t" Kansai Airport Express $499.99 (Newhall Station)
MiniTrix DRG Class 03.10 4-6-2 £165.00 (Gaugemaster)
Graham Farish BR Class 9F 2-10-0 (92002) Black Early £103 (Gaugemaster)
Graham Farish BR (ex-GWR) Railcar W30W Brunswick Green £66
Microace C53 A$ 126.45 (Japanese Model Supplies)
List will be updated as and when I find new things! Current running total: £1222.74
Monday 17 March 2008
DCC installs
Long time no update... I'm due to start my layout finally next week as my degree project is well underway and I've secured a new job for post-graduation (hurrah!).
In the meantime I've got my first DCC chips installed in the Rail-Zeppelin and my Q1.
The Q1 was easy. The tender lifts of quickly and simply, and you just replace the buffer chip with your decoder (in my case a Lenz Silver Mini).
The Zeppelin was slightly more complicated til I managed to track down some English instructions... result: I now have one spare mini sitting waiting to have longer wires reattached after I didn't notice the built in cavity for decoders in the chassis (oops!).
If you do it the right way, the decoder sits happily in the cavity on the underside, with the wires trailing up some approximately correctly positioned and sized gaps...
The wires solder easily on to the tabs, and they even provide handy little letters on the tabs to guide you (R for Red, O for orange etc...). I've chosen to use good old cello-tape to secure my wires. Even this way it's a bit bulky for the body to snap down again on the lugs, so some of the self-adhesive pad supplied with the decoder provides a handy way to keep everything together...
For anyone else attempting to put DCC in the Zeppelin. The lovely chaps at Lemke have the instructionshere.
Both now run with my Digitrax Zephyr, and the Q1 seems to be a lot smoother than on DC - not sure why!
More updates when I start building the layout soon.
K
In the meantime I've got my first DCC chips installed in the Rail-Zeppelin and my Q1.
The Q1 was easy. The tender lifts of quickly and simply, and you just replace the buffer chip with your decoder (in my case a Lenz Silver Mini).
The Zeppelin was slightly more complicated til I managed to track down some English instructions... result: I now have one spare mini sitting waiting to have longer wires reattached after I didn't notice the built in cavity for decoders in the chassis (oops!).
If you do it the right way, the decoder sits happily in the cavity on the underside, with the wires trailing up some approximately correctly positioned and sized gaps...
The wires solder easily on to the tabs, and they even provide handy little letters on the tabs to guide you (R for Red, O for orange etc...). I've chosen to use good old cello-tape to secure my wires. Even this way it's a bit bulky for the body to snap down again on the lugs, so some of the self-adhesive pad supplied with the decoder provides a handy way to keep everything together...
For anyone else attempting to put DCC in the Zeppelin. The lovely chaps at Lemke have the instructionshere.
Both now run with my Digitrax Zephyr, and the Q1 seems to be a lot smoother than on DC - not sure why!
More updates when I start building the layout soon.
K
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